Here are some of the first test cuts and working out the kinks in the new build.
Watch the height of the Z axis in this video.
The cut height should be .06 but its not.
You can see the torch up and down lights move as it cuts across the material.
This is why thicker and slower material are better to learn on.
This set up is using the RS485 Connection so that Mach3, the dragon cut and the plasma cutter all talk.
These Bulls were one of the next items that we moved on to. We cut all of them out of 20G Cold Rolled Steel.
They were about 30 in Wide by 15 in Tall. We ended cutting about 40 of these. We were able to nest 10 per sheet. You can see more photos of the bulls on build Page 18.
Here are a few things that we have found or noticed so far in this build. This is not an all inclusive list and more will follow in later build pages as we think of them or find them.
1. Make sure that you read all of the set up and configuration info in the CandCNC Manual for the Dragon Cut system. If you are are using a floating head on your Z make sure that you get a very accurate reading for the slack in the micro switch and set it up correctly in the Post Processor.
2. We Are using Green Cut in our water table and are very happy with the results. We found that about 3/8 air gap between the plate and the water is working good for us. While it dramatically reduces the amount of smoke and gas coming off it does not remove all of it. We installed our plasma table next to the roll up door of the shop. We also installed a fan overhead that blows the left over smoke out of the shop.
3. Use the maintenance / service hours tracker that is built into Mach3 to track your consumables. We have so far been cutting mostly thin materials 20g to 1/4. So we do not have a lot of tracking date but here is what we have so far:
We have been using the standard electrode: HT 220842 and the Fine cut Nozzle: HT220930 Here are the Info on our first set of consumables:
Total Distance Traveled: X = 20,000 inches Y=27,000 inches Z= 4,100 inches Pierce = 9,128 We removed them from service when the electrode reached a pit in the tip of 2mm.
They look pretty good Here is a photo see below.
Second Set of Consumables: X = 16,000 inches Y = 16,000 inches Z = 5,500 Pierces = 11,680.
4. Not really a tip or trick but, we were going to experiment with the Copper Plus consumables but have been getting an error code when we try to use them. We will work on this and get back to it.
5. If you have an error occur during your cut and have to pick a point to re-start and you use the run from here watch your Z axis and make sure you re-zero it before you start again. If you use the run from here command the Z will often end up way out of range and cause problems on the re-start.
6. We have found that water splashing up can cause quite a bit of mess on the table and the sides trays of the table. We plan to build some shields for this. You will have to watch for the build of the shields later on in this build. But here is where we are talking about:
Thats all of the tips and tricks for now. Watch the upcoming build pages for more!
Set One: May be a little hard to see the dirt on the nozzle is mainly from dried dirt and water that get splashed up. The orifice is nice and round
Set Two: About the same but this set has uniform heat marks around the nozzle. Not sure what caused that. No loss in performance but will have to watch for this again. The orifice is nice and round
This is the edge of the table
Then you have the trough that runs along the table. The water tends to splash up into this trough and make a mess. What we plan to build is a sheet metal shield that will block water from splashing into here.
We plan on making it easily removable and it should be pretty slick look for it on the future build pages.